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OBEDIENCE TRAINING METHODS
Copyright 1998 Ron Lawrence See notice below
Prerequisites to Reading Obedience Training Methods How Do Dog's Think? How Do Dog's Learn? Training Theory
General Comments
This page outlines some the basic methods that can be used to train a dog for obedience work. Selecting one of the methods will not suit all trainers or all dogs. Indeed, a trainer may use one method on one dog and another on another dog or, as I do, use a combination of the methods. My emphasis often shifts from one method to another depending on the exercise being trained and the dog I am training. None of the methods described uses harsh treatment, punishment or reprimands.
Note: We can all learn by watching other trainers and triallers at work with their dogs, particularly by watching the more successful competitors, but we should no more follow the lead of these trainers without question then we should follow the latest training fads without understanding the reason behind the methods used. Great triallers can make dog training look easy but, don't be fooled, they just make far fewer errors, have fewer set backs and, because of their experience~ understand what is important and what is not, so they make better use of their training time than novice trainers. One final thing, experienced triallers know most of the secret tricks of the trade and, while they may appear to be doing one thing, they may in fact, be doing quite another thing. Not all trainers will give up their secrets freely. See Ringcraft.
Before a handler can train his dog to carry out a particular obedience exercise, the handler needs to have a thorough understanding of what is involved in the exercise and not just a detailed' knowledge of the obedience rules relating to the exercise. The obedience rules are primarily directed towards what the ,judge needs to know and not what the handler needs to know. As an analogy, the rules of the road don't teach a driver how to drive a car.
The handler needs to have developed a perfect image in his mind for each of the steps used to train the exercise. The handler then needs to paint the images of each steps to the dog until the dog can perceive the same image the handler sees (in the correct sequence) when the unique obedience command or signal associated with the exercise is given. The dog learns largely by trial and error - match or mismatch, ie what the image of the exercise looks like but, just as.importantly, what the image does not look like. The dog is rewarded when he has it right and corrected when he has it wrong. Some dogs (and handlers) learn best by rote (repetition) but this method has a distinct disadvantage when the standard plot is varied, something goes wrong or the dog is distracted for a moment. The best method is to teach the dog the principle features of the exercise and then introduce variations (proofing) on the theme so the dog has to think his way through an exercise to achieve the principle features. This is when training changes from mere practice through repetition to fun for both the handler and his dog.
An important Analogy. Throughout this page, I will use the children's game of 'Hot and Cold' as an analogy to the basis behind dog training. I use it because it is a simple game with few rules and most people can grasp the strategies within a few minutes. in the child's game, a treasure is hidden from one of the children (the seeker), that child is then given clues by the others (the guides) in order to find the treasure. Each time the seeker moves in the direction of the treasure, the guides tell the seeker that s/he is getting 'hot'. Each time the seeker moves away from the treasure, the guides tell the seeker s/he is getting 'cold'. A neutral signal or lack of a signal (silence) can be assumed to mean 'keep doing what you are doing - don't deviate'. The 'hot' and 'cold' tools work very well in this game because the guides and the seeker need to give and react to only two (arguably three - the neutral signal) 'commands'. Of course, the 'hot' and 'cold' commands can be replaced with any other nonsense words as long as the meaning of the words to the seeker and guides are: 'Yes, keep doing that' and 'No. stop doing that', respectively. To increase the difficulty of the child's game, the seeker can be blindfolded but we will use the tunblindfoldedt seeker in this analogy.
Note: The use of the words 'punishment' and 'correction' in this page are as defined in Training Theory. They are not interchangeable.
The Game's Analogies to dog training,
The simple analogies in this game to dog training are: the seeker is the dog, the guides are the dog's trainer and/or handler, the treasure is the motivator, reward or primary reinforcer, the 'hot' signal is praise, the 'click' or more technically the secondary reinforcer, the 'cold' signal is a correction command eg, 'Ahhhhh!'. The observant reader may note that there is no mention of 'punishment' in this analogy. The more sophisticated analogies and strategies of the game to dog training are:
a. Timing. If the seeker is given 'hot' or 'cold' signals every five or ten minutes or randomly, s/he will cover a lot of unnecessary territory in search of the treasure; indeed, may never find it. if the seeker is given badly timed signals so that a 'hot' signal ends up being given too late and is actually given when seeker should have received a 'cold' signal, the seeker will become confused and stressed; indeed, if this were to occur continuously in the real life dog training, the dog could develop the condition behaviourists call 'learned helplessness' and just give up trying. However, if the seeker is given 'hot' or 'cold' signals the instant the seeker begins to move or even looks in a certain direction s/he will soon find the treasure very quickly. Good timing in dog training is absolutely essential to its success, ie praise and corrections must be given within half a second of the desired or undesired action, respectively. (see timing below).
b. Tone of Voice, If the guidets tone of voice in giving the signals varies according to how close or how far away the seeker is moving from the desired path to the treasure (an Training Methods excited 'Hot' or a disappointed tCold'), the seeker will receive far more subtle guidance clues than less expressive 'Hot' and 'Cold' signals. Dogs are very good at sensing subtle changes in the handler's voice tone. A badly delivered voice command or praise can sound like a reprimand. Experienced handlers know that subtle pitch changes in the voice due to stress and nervousness in the ring can adversely affect a dog's demeanour and performance.
c. Physical Guidance. If the seeker is guided by the hand, guided by a lead, gently pushed (forced) or someone points in the right direction, the seekerts options are greatly reduced, these cues are not as subtle as the voice signals and the chances of finding the treasure quickly will be greatly enhanced. Of course, this would be cheating, making the game far too easy, but in dog training thatts just what we want. in dog training, the correct use of a collar and lead and physical guidance greatly reduces the options for the dog and are essential tools for the trainer. However, badly delivered or poorly timed physical guidance is sure to be counterproductive. In the ease of dog training, badly delivered physical guidance can also cause hand or foot shyness.
d. Body Language - Anticipation. If the guides are particularly perceptive to the seeker~s intentions by reading his/her body language, the timing of the verbal guidance can be greatly enhanced. A perceptive seeker can also read the body language of the guides and use this information as additional cues to the whereabouts of the treasure (remember our tseekert is not blind folded) The ability to read the dog's body language and his intentions is an enormou.s asset to a handler in dog training. Know your dog is not just a meaningless catch cry - seasoned handlers train to their dogts temperament -not against it or in spite of it! The reverse is true also, the dog will receive non verbal cues from his trainer's body language and whether he is pleasing or displeasing his handler. As with changes in voice tone, experienced handlers know that the dog can read the nervous signs in the handler's body language (and pheromones) in the ring and react adversely to them.
e. Mistakes are Good. The seeker learns just as much from a making a mistake (wrong choice), ie turning in the wrong direction and getting a tcold' signal as s/he does from turning in a right direction and getting a 'hott signal. The same is true for dog training. Remember, the dog learns largely by trial and error, ie choosing from the options available to him or to put it another way matching or mismatching the handler's image or a perfect exercise. The dog is rewarded when he has it right and corrected when he has made a wrong choice. We use proofing techniques because experienced trainers know that, sooner or later, the dog will try an easier/more rewarding option, get confused, be distracted, think he has a choice, etc in how he does an exercise. In order to proof an exercise, the handler has to put the dog in a position where he will probably make the mistake; indeed, the handler hopes the dog will make a common mistake, so the trainer can rule out that option in the future with a correction (See Training Theory).
f. Learning by Watching Others. If a seeker has been watching other seekers play the game, s/he learn the rules and strategies more quickly. We learn as much from other people's mistakes as we do from their successes. The novice seeker has only had the rules explained to him/her and can only image how the game is played. By watching others who play the game before they participate, other seekers learn the principles of the game and can devise their own strategies, etc. In dog training, the same applies, handlers can learn from other handlers and dogs can learn from other dogs. A young pup learns from watching older dogs go through their paces. Some sheep farmers tie young pups to their mother so that they learn on the job by following her around, some handlers use the umbilical chord method at home. The bitch will soon teach the pup what is required if the pup gets out of line and hinders her in her work. Always allow young pups to accompany you and other dogs to training sessions (obviously inoculation requirements must be adhered to).
g. Sphere of Influence - Control Distance. The seeker will usually follow the directions of those closest to him/her because they are the guides most involved in the game. The guides working closest to the seeker are exerting more influence on the seeker than those shouting from a distance. The same is true for dog training. Shouting commands at the dog from afar will have little effect on the untrained dog, the handler is outside the dog's personal space, sphere of influence/control distance. Until the dog has learned to respect the handler, obey his commands instantly and understand what is required in training, the handler must keep the dog within the control distance (his sphere of influence). Initially, this distance will be exactly equal to the length of the lead.
h. Play Training. If the game is greatly enjoyed by both the seeker and guides, the children will want to play it over and over again, friendships will be made and reinforced. By playing the game over and over again, they will get better at it, new strategies and tactics will be developed, the game will continue to move to higher and higher levels, new skills will be developed, blindfolds introduced, etc. The same is true for dog training, the more the dog and handler enjoy the training, the more they will look forward to the next training session and the better they will get at it. Play Training need not be absolutely relevant to obedience work (although it is in almost every case), the bonding that takes place between handler and dog during play training is just as important as the training itself, The dog must want to work for his handler not because of the prospects of treats or fear of punishment but because lie wants to please his master. The desire to please his master develops slowly as the dog learns what makes this master happy praise is the verbal indication to the dog that he has indeed pleased his master. Like a marriage or a close friendship that has reached maturity - it takes time. Play training also helps the handler to learn to 'know his dog' and the dog's respect for the handler can be greatly enhanced in the process.
Training Methods. 1) Dog handlers and trainers are always learning from each other, no trainer will ever develop the perfect dog training method, it is an ever evolving and hopefully, improving process. Trainers are always making subtle changes to their training methods, usually as a result and acknowledgment of new and better ideas and science. Dog trials are competitive events and the catalyst for improved performances and training methods. In my view, the four basic methods of dog training are:
a. The Opportunity Method. The opportunity method takes advantage of chance occurrences which relate to obedience exercises. If the dog 'sits', 'stands', tdrops', 'jumps', 'fetches' or whatever, the obedience command for that exercise is immediately given by the handler. This reinforces the command and associates it with the action occurring at the time, the handler then immediately positively reinforces the action by praise, 'click', treat, etc. In the analogy of the child's 'Hot and Cold Caine', the 'seeker' receives shot' signals only and does not have been taught the rules of the game before the game commences. indeed, the child would not be aware of the existence of a 'treasure'. The 'seeker' has to work out the rules of the game as s/he plays it. Of course, the guides have to know the rules of the game.
b. The Compulsive Method. The compulsive method uses negative reinforcement, eg physical positioning (force through the hands, feet, etc), the check chain jerk or pop method, the Koehler method, etc. In the analogy of the child's 'Hot and Cold Game', the child receives only tcold' signals. The absence of (silence) or removal (pressure withdrawn) of a 'cold' signal can be assumed to be a 'hot' signal. Note that silence has no precision or timing inherent in it. The removal of a force does may have timing if it is done at precisely the right moment when the dog relents to the pressure and begins to take up the desired behaviour. The correction command 'Ah!' is equivalent to a 'cold' signal but it has no negative reinforcement element to it, per se, nor is it directly associated with the Compulsive Method.
c. The inducive or Motivation Method. The inducive or motivation method includes all the methods that use positive reinforcement: giving food, toys, treats and other primary reinforcers motivators, using 'Clickers', praise and other secondary reinforcers and Play Trajning. In the analogy of the child's 'Hot and Cold Game', the 'seeker receives only 'hot' signals. The absence of a 'hot' signal (silence) can be assumed to be a 'cold' signal but silence has no precision or timing inherent in it. The correction command 'Ah!' is equivalent to a tcold' signal but it has no positive reinforcement element to it~ per Se, nor is it directly associated with the Inducive Method.
d. A Combination of Training Methods. Most experienced trainers use all of the basic methods to some degree but will use one method predominantly ie, in the analogy of the child's !iIot and Cold Gamet, the 'seeker' receives both 'hot' and 'cold' signals. The correction command 'Ah!' is equivalent to a 'cold' signal and can be used effectively with the Combined Method.
The Getting of Religion. Today, many of the compulsive methods are out of favour and in my humble opinion, that is now it should be but in many instances, the pendulum has swung too far in one direction. For many, 'click and treat' training is the new religion in dog training it is worshipped as a gift from heaven. 'Click and treat' (a form of the Inducive Method) falls on one side of the training equation which was missing from the Compulsive training methods taught for too many years in obedience schools. However, the best of the traditional methods should not be thrown out with the introduction of the new religion. I believe Compulsive methods are necessary in dog training (and dare I say it - in child raising). In the analogy of the child's game a 'hot' signal has exactly the same value as a 'cold' signal. To put it another way, we all know that the Morse Code relies on only two basic signals, ie 'dots' and 'dashes'. Imagine the difficulty of sending a message if the Morse Code signaller was restricted to using only half the signals available to him, eg if he could only use 'dots' and no 'dashes'. More about this aspect of training at Random Positive Reinforcement and Predictable Punishment or Correction.
Clickers. 'Clickers' are secondary positive reinforcers, ie the dog is trained to associate the tclick' with a pleasant reward or primary reinforcer. But there is nothing magic about a 'clicker'. The dog could also have been conditioned to associate a klaxon horn with a pleasant ~. primary reinforcer. indeed, the dog could have been conditioned to associate the 'click' with physical punishment. For example, if the pup was given a scruff shake, rather than a treat. every time the 'clicker' was 'clicked', the dog would soon associate the 'clicker', through classical conditioning, with punishment. In this case, the tclieker' could be used in training as a punishing (weakening) tool rather than, as it is today, as a reinforcement (strengthening) tool.
Praise. Praise is essential in training - 'good boyt. tgood girl' or 'good dog' should be a major part of every trainer's vocabulary. Praise is used as a secondary reinforcer ie, as with the use of the 'clicker', praise is associated with the primary positive reinforcer. 'Click and Treat', tPraise and Treat' are the same thing. The dog can be praised effectively whenever it is within earshot of the handler. One of the disadvantages of the 'clicker' is that a 'click' is just a 'click' while verbal praise can be given with changes in the tone of voice, pitch, excitement, amusement and other subtle emotions that the dog will pick up. Remember praise is also a primary reinforcer as it indicates to the dog that the handler is pleased with him - dogs that work to please are rewarded by praise. Regardless of whether the clicker or praise is used, the timing must be right to be successful (see timing below).
Every Dog is Different. A method that works well for one dog may not work well for another. There are no right or wrong methods per se - just right and wrong methods for the dog and handler concerned. If you don't like a method of training don't use it. If your instructor or school insists on using a method you don't like, change your instructor or school. But I do urge all trainers to choose a combination of opportunity, compulsive and inducive -~ methods in your training, how you mix them is up to you and your dog. .~.
Timing. Regardless of the method used, timing is absoluteiy critical to the success of the training. The professional golfer, baseball hitter, cricket batsman, etc all know the critical importance of timing. The experienced dog trainer also knows the critical importance of timing. To some people it conies naturally - others have to learn it.
A dog lives for the moment. If he could talk he couldn't tell you what he did in the last half hour, let alone last week. That doesn't mean a dog can't recall pleasant or unpleasant associations smells nor remember the image of an exercise associated with his handler's commands, etc - he can and just as well or we couldntt train him but he has no sense of histon None of the methods discussed here work unless the timing of praise, the 'click' or corrections are timed just right. Unless these tools are used within half a second of the event that we want to strengthen or weaken it will be a complete waste of time, indeed can be counterproductive.
The dog associates 'praise', 'click', 'correction' or 'punishmentt with what he is doing at the very instant it is given. Calling a dog to you in the afternoon to punish him for the digging he did during the morning, punishes the dog for coming in sitting in front of you. Likewise praising or 'clicking' a dog after he has made a jump reinforces the way he landed rather than for making the jump. Pat Robard puts it like this: When using a camera, if the shutter on a camera is opened too late to get a particular photo you want.. you don't get a photograph of that event but the photograph of another event which occurs later. In order to get the timing right you must anticipate the event and get ready to capture it - you must be ready for it with a hair trigger finger. As Pat says, you must click/praise immediately the event occurs in order to get the event captured and this becomes even more important when the dog is working well away from you. When you really get to know your dog and you have developed a good relationship with him, you can get the timing right by clicking or praising as soon as you observe your dog 'thinking' about the behaviour you want.
Practice. Regular, routine practice is essentia' to refining and perfecting what has been learnt in basic trai.ning. I)o not overtrain, 20 mninutes a day for each dog is sufficient and a day of rest here and there refreshes dog and handler.
Obedience Class Situations. Some variations of the training methods are easy to teach in the class situation eg, check chain pop method or the food treat method, while other methods can only be taught satisfactorily on a one-to-one basis with the instructor. Of course, all methods should be demonstrated by the instructor and the earlier it is done the better.
Flooding Technique. Flooding is not an obedience training method per Se, it is a behaviour modification technique used to overcome problem behaviours usually associated with fear and anxiety or uncontrolled excitement. The problem with correcting some unwanted behaviours is that they occur at random, ie on irregular occasions which are unpredictable; therefore, they are difficult to train for, eg a visitor to the front door whkh sends the dog into a frenzy of barking and excited jumping or the fear of being examined or petted by a stranger. Using the flooding technique, the owner can create an artificial situation where there are many ~visitors! to the front door (maybe twenty in ten minutes twice a day for a week) so that the dog can be trained in what is the acceptable behaviour when the door bells rings. Like all training, the flooding is worked up in stages. In the ease where the dog has a ~ fear of meeting strangers, the dog might be placed in a sit by his handler and approached by a class of twenty handlers who, on the first occasion, just walk close by; if the dog tolerates this he is praised and rewarded. The next step may be an approach and chat with the handler by class members one at a time, followed by an approach and pat on the head, followed by an approach and stroke down the back, etc, etc until the dog can tolerate a full examination off lead.
Proofing. Once the dog has learnt the basics of an exercise, the exercise needs to be tested (proofed) under all conditions, repeatedly. Regardless of the methods used, training consists of three phases, ie, teaching (training), practice (refining/perfecting) and testing (or proofing). Proofing is the technique where distraction or variations are introduced on the theme to make sure the dog understands an exercise.
Here is an example of proofing. YOU teach the handler and his dog the 'Sit Stay'. After making the dog 'Stay' in a relatively distraction free environment, you step up the pressure. You throw balls up in the air and catch them, squeak toys, have someone stand near the dog and talk softly to it, If the dog gets up, have the handler gently correct it. When the dog passes this step, increase the distraction by throwing balls all around him, bouncing them on the ground, etc. Another handler should then try to offer him food, make strange noises such as clapping, barking like a dog, meowing like a cat, using toys or things that make strange noises. When the dog passes this step, increase the distraction by putting it on a 'Stay' and shout in a loud voice, 'Rover. Come!' (do not use the dog's name, the dog's release word or 'Down'). For homework, put the dog on a 'Sit Stay' in the lounge room and ask a member of the family to go and ring the doorbell while you supervise his 'Stay'.
It can take several months to work through all of these distractions and care must be taken not to put the dog in a situation that he is not ready for or never letting the dog successfully complete an exercise and earn his reward. Always let the dog complete the exercise on the last exercise on a positive note and with much praise. This keeps the dog interested in the work. What is good for the dog is also good for the handler so far as proofing is concerned. Put the handler under pressure by proofing him during class training so that he will be able to cope with the pressures of club competitions and trials. Play the part of the judge and allow the handler to correct the dog - something he can't do in the trial ring and helps with a Ringwise dog that anticipates. Proof the exercise as follows:
a. Hearing Distractions: Applause, squeaky toy, loud clap of the hands, horns, shouting, laughter, bells, whistles, keys and coins rattling, loud speakers (public address systems), aircraft overhead, trains passing by, train horns, another handler giving a firm, voice commands or the Judge orders. Voice only exercises.
b. Visual Distractions: Child playing with a ball or toy, another dog playing with a ball or toy (particularly if chasing or retrieving is involved), walking an unknown dog in front of the sit, go to very public places (parks shopping centres, etc), preferably with children in attendance. Have one or more the handlers (with their dogs) move about the dogs in the Stay. Eagles or other birds of prey flying/circling overhead. Shadows passing over the dog. Signal only exercises.
c. Scent Distractions: Bitch on season in the area, titbits placed near the dog, horses and other animals nearby. BBQ grilling steaks, people eating food nearby.
d. Other I)istractions: Training in the rain, drizzle, snow, sleet, water or ice on the ground, another handler offering food to another dog, stepping over the dog in the Sit, Down and Stand. Different ground surfaces, grass, bare earth, concrete, carpet, wood, Astroturf, etc. Hot days, cold days.
Random Positive Reinforcement and Predictable Punishment and Corrections. What interesting debates trainers and behaviourists have over the matters of positive and negative reinforcement, positive and negative punishment, random and predictable reinforcement, etc in relation to dog training. Marvellous, intriguing stuff! The reason the debates go on and on and on is that, like child raising, there cannot be a strict set of rules for dog training. There cannot be a strict set of rules because every dog and handler are different and because the reasons for failure or success are never the same from one situation to the next - only general guidelines can be given. A handler must know himself and get to know his dog before he can app'y the guidelines appropriately. Here is a summary of my guidelines:
No performance - No reward, No reprimand, No punishment!
Note: A reward is not a bribe, it is given in recognition of achieving a desired performance - not in anticipation of it, ie a reward is given immediately after the performance not before it. A reward is anything the dog desires. A reward gives Positive Reinforcement.
Until the dog has 'learnt' an exercise satisfactorily, all 'desired' behaviour directed towards that exercise should be rewarded every time.
Note: 'Desired' behaviour is a performance at an excellent level, consistent perfection is an unrealistic expectation at anytime, let alone instant perfection during the training stage. As a rough rule of thumb, a dog has 'learnt' an exercise when he can carry out the exercise repeatedly at an excellent standard over several weeks of training and practice. Until then, the dog is still learning and improving (hopefully) and must be encouraged to continue to do so.
If a dog gets a 'learnt' exercise wrong (yes, it happens to the best of them) - the correction command 'Ah! is given, No reward, No reprimand, No punishment~
Once the dog has Ilearnt! the exercise, all desirable behaviour in that exercise should be rewarded randomly. Explained more fully below.
All improvements on past performances in a 'learnt' exercise, ie all personal bests (an exceedingly quick finish, a perfectly straight broad jump, an instant drop on recall, etc), should be rewarded every time.
Note: I am not saying we should reward those things which are 'less' wrong from the time before, ie would still be penalised in obedience trials, eg do not reward a less crooked sit, less severe forge at heel, less severe lag at heel, etc. If the dog consistently makes a crooked sit or consistently forges or lags at heel, ete, he hasn't 'learnt' the exercise, ie not performing at an excellent level. Rewarding subtle improvements on an otherwise excellent performance is what this is about, ie encouraging a gradual move from excellence to perfection every time it occurs.
A wrong choice (getting it wrong for whatever reason) should be corrected every time. Corrections are not punishment! A correction tells the dog he has made a wrong choice, for whatever reason, a correction doesn't punish the dog for doing so. The dog should never fear a correction. Explained more fully Below. See also When to Correct Your Dog. Any undesired social behaviour (aggression, digging, fouling the house, etc but not getting an obedience exercise wrong) should be punished every time. Explained more fully Below. ~
The Reasons for the Variable (Random) Reint~rcement. in nature, carnivorous animals instinctively hunt for food, part of the motivation to hunt is to satisfy hunger and to survive. The animal selects his prey carefully to increase his chances of success but he knows, through experience, that every hunt will not be successful and that often lie will go hungry. The animal may know his statistical success rate is only kill one in five hunts but that does not mean he will allow four good prospects to pass before he hunts the fifth. The animal knows that provided he -~ remains fit, maintains his skills and perf~rnis well on the next hunt, or the next, he will eventually eat and survive. An animal in a zoo (or a domesticated pet) has his meal given to him daily, on schedule, there is no reason to hunt (and nothing to hunt anyway) and there is no reason to maintain his skills. The animal's hunting (or working) instincts may not be satisfied but, his hunger pains are, so there is no longer any motivation to behave according to his drives and instincts. The animal soon becomes fat and lazy and probably very psychologically disturbed.
Using the above as an analogy in dog training, if we reward every performance every time, regardless of how well the exercise is done, or whether or not it is done at all, the dog will be conditioned to expect a reward regardless of his performance. r~ he dog could be forgiven for believing in free lunches. Eventually, the dog's motivation to perform well, or at all, will be extinguished. It has been argued, probably correctly, that it is unfair not to reward a dog trained in this way in the trial ring. However, most trainers use variable reinforcement, Ic the dog receives no reward for no performance, is randomly reinforced for performing a 'learned' exercise and is reinforced every time he achieves a 'personal best' in training. This dog will be conditioned to expect a reward occasionally for an excellent performance and every time for a particularly good performance. He is conditioned to the reality that there is no such thing as free lunch and that rewards must be earned but not expected every time he does something well.
The Reasons for Predictable Punishment. Most criminals believe that they won't get caught. They have good reasons for believing this, statistics show the odds are with them. However, if they knew that every time they broke the laws they would be caught and punished, those with any sense would give up crime forever. Crime would no longer pay and would soon be extinguished. -
In training a dog in acceptable social behaviour (to our standard - not theirs), owners must punish every time a dog exhibits undesirable or unwanted social behaviour if he wants to extinguish that behaviour. Punishment must fit the crime - the punishment must be just enough to stop an undesirable action (the punishment must outweigh the inherent reward for the behaviour) and must be tailored to the temperament and sensitivity of the dog.
Note: Punishment is used to stop an unwanted social behaviour and not to teach a new behaviour. This is why punishment does not have a place in any credible training method - it is simply not a training tool. Punishment must be well timed to be effective. 'Punishment' is always used in this Homepage as in the definition given in Training Theory.
The Reasons for Predictable Correction. A correction means: 'Nah ... not that way!' In explaining the child's game 'Hot and Cold', I explained why 'cold' signals are just as important to the seeker as 'hot' signals. When we train and proof our dogs, we constantly and deliberately place them in a position of choice. Like the seeker in the game, the dog under training should expect and welcome a Praise or Click ('Hot' signals) as much as he does the correction command 'Ah!' ('Cold' signals) and learn equally from both. The dog should never have cause to fear a correction command. Corrections cannot be given randomly, like the 'cold' signal, to be effective they must be consistent and predictable.
Note: Corrections need to be predictable so far as the exercise being trained is concerned but if a dog makes a minor error in another exercise which is not being trained at the time, eg a crooked sit when left for 'drop on recall' training, the handkr needs to weigh up whether correcting the crooked sit will confuse the dog and take his mind ofT the recall. See When to Correct Your Dog.
Getting the Dog's Attention.
The first thing you need to do before you can start any form of dog training is get your dog's attention. This might sound simple but it is the most difficult thing to achieve. You may think you are the world's most interesting person but the chances are that your pride and joy may be more interested in what he can sniff with his nose rather than your words of wisdom. So how do you start to get the dog's attention?
Loss of Concentration. Loss of concentration gradually develops after the dog has undergone training for a few weeks. Before he is trained he has nothing to concentrate on, so this cannot be assessed until he has some work to do. A dog with a poor concentration is one who looks aimlessly around as he walks along, sniffs at all sorts of things and gives you the impression that he is not really interested in anything, particularly training.
The Importance of the dog's Name. In the litter, the breeder will have made some noise to attract the pups attention to the food dish. After all the breeder can't call out several names at once. Have you noticed how all the pups in a healthy well reared litter dash to the breeder when she appears, food or no f~od. When you carry your pup home he will be a bit overawed at first but use a familiar key word follo~ied by his new name and he will soon start to respond. Now you have the start of his attention training. His name must be used only when you want his attention - for the rest of his life, never when you want to tell him off. Use his name when you call him for his dinner. You will soon have his complete attention. Don't make the mistake of calling him when he is busy sniffing some interesting smell he has found in the garden. Wait until he is looking for something to do then call him. Later on when you are training him to walk properly on the lead you can use his name to get his attention but keeping it is a different matter. Small puppies cannot pay attention to anything for very long so be prepared to accept just a few seconds at first. As he grows older he will be able to concentrate for longer and longer periods. But learn how he reacts and don't try to make him pay attention for a second longer than his limit. Err on the side of caution.
Tone of Voice. The human voice is a very underrated and underused tool in dog training. Learn to cultivate this. Try not to sound angry when you are delighted with him. A whisper is all that is really needed. The actual words you use are not important (its the sound of the word that is recognised and visualised) but the level and tone are all important.
Food and Toys. Food, carefully used, is a great motivator for many greedy pups. But make him earn his titbit's. Toys are good attention getters. Try the get him to focus on your face and eyes in particular - hold the attention getter near your face. Have a special toy that the pup likes and keep it only for training sessions. Produce the toy and ask him to watch. If he gives you his full attention for a second or two, break off and play. Try for another second the next time and gradually build up. Don't ever be so predictable that your pup knows exactly what you are going to do next. That will just teach him to keep only half of his mind on you. Watch his eyeballs. if his eyes are on you he is concentrating. if not you are wasting your time. Play with him as much as you can, let him learn that his time with you is the best thing that could happen to him and he will start to give you his complete attention. Only when you have his attention can any serious training begin.
Helpful Hints, if the dog is distracted wait until he regains your eye contact and give him special praise and reward for doing so. The timing is important, the reward is given for regaining eye contact, the message is eye contact has a reward greater than any distraction. .The dog should see resisting distractions is an opportunity to be rewarded and not an occasion for punishment.
Petting. Many of us have the habit of petting a dog on top of his head, but we really should be scratching it's chin and/or neck. Why? Well, we know how important eye contact is for us. Ever notice how a dog accustomed to head petting comes up to humans with his head down, gaze to the floor hoping to be petted! By scratching the chin and petting the area from chin to brisket (between front legs) the dog tends to look up and look at the person doing the scratching.
Umbilical Chord Method. Put your dog on a medium-to-short leash and tie it to your belt. Now, go about the house on your ordinary business. Do not pay attention to the dog. It will quickly learn to pay attention to you to determine when you are going to get up and walk around, or where you are going. This is an especially effective exercise with puppies and also lays a good foundation for learning to heel later. Start with short periods of time, say 15 minutes, and work up as your puppy gets older and more familiar with this exercise. If you catch your dog watching you, praise it.
Food from the Mouth Method. Place titbits (say dried liver) in your mouth or between your lips and spit it out to your dog so that he can catch it. Some handlers will be put off by this method but it is an excellent exercise for teaching attention. It gets the dog to concentrate directly on your face, not your hands or pocket. Do this as a separate exercise, until your dog understands that it must watch your face for rewards. Also, if he doesn't catch it, don't let them pick up the food from the floor or ground. If you do, they will learn that they don't have to catch the treat. They can just wait and pick it up.
Talking Softly to the Dog. To hear your commands (and be rewarded) it will have to pay close attention to you. This is especially effective when the dog is young, and is a good habit to get into for all your training. There is never a good case for shouting at your dog.
Motivational Word. A dog will learn to associate a word with a pleasant experience if that word is used with that experience. An obsessive retriever may associate the fun of retrieving with the name of a squeaky toy, a stick or ball 'Squeaky', 'Bouncy', etc. A food motivated dog may associate a treat with the name given to his favourite food 'Biscuits', 'Teddies', 'Liver', etc. A dog that is motivated or 'turned on' by walking or a trip in the car may associate that pleasant experience with 'Going', 'Walkies', etc. An observant handler will notice the dog's eyes tight up, his ears prick, his head placed on one side making eye contact with the handler, excited jumping or pacing, tail wagging, rear end swivelling. begging, paw lifted, etc when the motivational word is used. if the motivational words are used with caution, these words can be used to get the dog's attention and motivate the dog in training and in the trial ring. The word should not be used without the pleasant experience associated with it being given soon afterwards; otherwise, the association will soon be extinguished. If one of my dogs is working a little flat in the ring, I will change the Heel command, Recall command, etc to one of the dog's motivational words. it never ceases to surprise me how much difference the word makes to the dog's performance and his attention on me.
Eyes. 'Soft focus' means focussing on the horizon (in the distance) and not giving direct eye contact. 'Keen focus' means focussing on a spot or object or giving eye contact. Keen focus (or eye contact) gets the dog's attention usually in anticipation of a command, or when correcting the dog, soft focus relaxes the dog. A correction command 'Ah~' can be hardened or softened appropriately by either using keen eye contact or avoiding eye contact by focussing elsewhere. Prolonged eye contact or glaring intimidates the dog. Throughout training and during a trial the handler should be changing from soft to keen focus according to the needs of the situation.
Grahame Gossow from the OzObedienceTrialling List adds this advice:
in basic training:
Work in small patterns with plenty of turnslDowns/Sits/Stands, etc. Try and work in an area not more than 3 square metres.
Place the dog's collar as high up on the neckline as possible so the handler is aware of any sudden movement of the dog's head away from the correct position.
Work with a shorter lead than normal.
Work at a faster pace than normal.
Be aware of the size of steps you are taking - not the pace but the distance between each step ie the stride. Most people stride out too far for the size of their dogs.
Be aware of where your left hand is positioned. Some dogs will want to see your hand. It useful to have your left thumb tucked inside your jeans/trouser pocket to hold your hand and lead steady.
Speaking to your dog in the ring is forbidden but a gentle voice whispers in training is a great benefit. At the appropriate time, a "good dog" or "well done" in a kindly tone of voice is very pleasing to the dog.
In addition to working within a confined area, try heeling the dog in a straight line without any other commands for at least the length of the ring and preferably further. See how many times you have to correct or guide the dog back into position within a given distance as a guide to your progress.
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