S k i

a n d

B a c k c o u n t r y

O p e r a t i o n s

SnowScienceandSafetyfortheMountainGuide Wal terBruns Canadian Mountain Holidays Tel: (403) 762-7100, Fax: (403) 762-5879

ABSTRACT

Thesafetyofpeoplein awinter,backcountrymountain
environment is presented in terms ofmargins of security
and margins of survival.The elements of a security deter-
mination are expanded on assessmentsof snowstability,
hazard, andrisk. Processesof reasoningby mountainguides
inlightofmanyuncer taintiesar eoutlined.Risk
management is treatedin terms of human psychology.Fi-
nally, tools affecting margins of survival are put into con-
text with recent results of risk homeostasistheory.

INTRODUCTION

A mountain guide is "one who shows the way...by reason
of...greater experiencewith the course to be pursued". The
professionofguidingisbothanartandascience.The
question -vigorouslydebated at times -is how much is
art, andhow muchis science. The challenge,for practicing
guides, is to merge elements of art and of science in their
work.
Inexercising one'sdutiesas aguide,the overarching
consideration is the safetyandenjoyment of the client(s).
Thispaperpresentsaconceptualframeworkforsafety
determinationsbyguides onbehalfofclients.Contribu-
tions fromsnow science are indicated, and scope forfur-
therresearch is presented, in the spirit of merging theory
and practice.

SITUATIONAL SAFETY, SECURITY AND SURVIVAL

Safetyisfreedomfromdanger,riskorinjury.Mountain
guides consider safety in a situational context.The act of
guiding consists of linking a sequenceof dangerous situa-
tions which deliver enjoyment to the client(s).Considera-
tion of safety foreach situation necessitates a sequenceof
cognitive processes: the perception of danger attendantto
the situation,the assessment ofhazard in light of uncer-
tainties, and the management of risk by free choice. Let us
callthiscognitivesequencethesecuritydetermination.
Guidesnavigatethroughdangeroussituationswiththe
security determination as a compass.
Perceptionof danger is not exact, nor are cognitiveproc-
esses precise. The security determination for any situation
isfraughtwithuncertainties.Itdoesnotnecessarily
correspondto the anticipatedsafety of the situation, which
is why an 'accident' could occur. In the event of a mishap,
furthersurvival measures come intoplay.These may in-
fluence overall safety, dependingon outcomes.
The anticipated safety margin is dependenton the mar-
ginofsecuritythatisdeterminedandtheanticipated
margin of survival that would arise with a mishap:

Anticipated Margin of Safety=Margin of Securityx An-
ticipated Margin of Survival.

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